What Is Double Knitting and Why Learn It
Double knitting is a colorwork technique that produces a two-sided, reversible fabric with the pattern visible on both faces in opposite colors. Unlike stranded colorwork, there are no floats on the back because there is no back — both sides are finished stockinette surfaces.
This technique is ideal when both sides of your project will be seen. Scarves, blankets, potholders, coasters, and cowls are the most popular double knit projects. It also produces a fabric that is twice as thick as regular stockinette, making it warmer and sturdier without being stiff. Double knitting has grown in popularity over the past decade as knitters seek projects that look polished from every angle.
When to Use Double Knitting
Choose double knitting any time you want a truly reversible finished piece. A double knit scarf shows a clean pattern on both sides, so it looks great no matter how it drapes. Double knit potholders are thick enough to handle hot dishes without needing extra layers. Cowls and headbands benefit because the inside is always visible when worn.
Double knitting also shines for bold, graphic colorwork. Because each stitch is either Color A or Color B, the technique naturally creates high-contrast designs. Geometric patterns, letters, and simple motifs translate beautifully into double knit charts. If your design has only two colors and you want it to look finished on both sides, double knitting is the right technique.
Step-by-Step: How to Double Knit
Cast On with Both Colors:
Use a two-color long-tail cast on. Hold both yarns together and alternate one stitch in Color A and one stitch in Color B across the entire cast on. You will cast on twice the number of stitches shown in your chart because each square on the chart represents a pair — one knit stitch and one purl stitch.
Read the Chart:
Double knitting charts look like standard colorwork charts. Each colored square tells you what to do with the knit-purl pair. A Color A square means knit with Color A, then purl with Color B. A Color B square means knit with Color B, then purl with Color A. Work every row from right to left on the right side and left to right on the wrong side, or work in the round to avoid purling altogether.
Work the Stitches:
Bring both yarns to the front. Knit the first stitch with the indicated color. Bring both yarns to the front again. Purl the next stitch with the opposite color. Repeat across the row. Always move both yarns together between knit and purl positions to avoid tangling.
Bind Off:
Use a standard bind off, working each knit-purl pair together as one stitch. This creates a clean, single-layer edge that matches the thickness of the fabric.
How the FiberTools Gauge Calculator Helps Your Double Knitting
Gauge is critical in double knitting because the fabric behaves differently from single-layer stockinette. Double knitting tends to produce a slightly tighter gauge horizontally and a significantly thicker fabric. Always knit a gauge swatch in double knitting before starting your project — do not rely on a standard stockinette swatch.
Use the Gauge Calculator to convert your swatch measurements into accurate stitch and row counts for your target dimensions. Enter your double knitting gauge, not your single stockinette gauge, to get the correct numbers. Since double knitting uses roughly twice the yarn of regular stockinette, the Yarn Calculator can help you estimate total yardage for each color so you buy enough of both.
Tips and Common Mistakes
Keep your tension consistent between the knit and purl stitches. Uneven tension creates puckering where one face pulls tighter than the other. Practice on a small swatch until both sides look smooth.
Never twist your yarns between the knit and purl stitches. Twisting locks the two layers together and ruins the reversible drape of the fabric. The two layers should move independently except at the edges.
Choose yarns with high contrast. Because double knitting creates a two-color pattern, the design disappears if the colors are too similar. A light and a dark in the same fiber and weight work best. Worsted (4) weight yarn on US 6 or US 7 needles is the most forgiving combination for beginners.
Count your stitch pairs after every row. It is easy to accidentally knit two stitches with the same color, which merges the layers. If your needle has an odd number of stitches at the end of a row, you have made an error.
Real Projects to Try
A double knit scarf is the classic starter project. Cast on 30 to 40 stitch pairs for a scarf roughly six inches wide. Choose a simple checkerboard or heart chart and work until the scarf reaches your desired length. The finished scarf will be warm, reversible, and impressive.
A double knit potholder is a quick weekend project. Cast on 20 to 25 stitch pairs for an eight-inch square. Use cotton yarn in two bold colors. The double thickness provides real heat protection, and the reversible design means both sides look intentional.
A double knit cowl works up quickly in bulky (5) weight yarn. Cast on in the round to eliminate purling entirely — every stitch is a knit stitch alternating colors. A 60-stitch-pair cast on creates a comfortable circumference, and 30 to 40 rounds produces a cowl that folds beautifully.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much yarn does double knitting use compared to regular knitting?
Double knitting uses approximately twice the yarn of single stockinette because you are creating two layers of fabric simultaneously. Each color accounts for roughly half the total yardage. Plan your yarn purchase accordingly and always buy an extra skein of each color to account for gauge differences and tension variations across the project.
Can I double knit in the round?
Yes, and many knitters prefer it. Working in the round eliminates purl stitches entirely. Every stitch is a knit stitch, alternating colors for the front and back layers. This simplifies the hand movements and often produces more even tension. Cowls, hats, and mittens are excellent candidates for circular double knitting.
What needle size should I use for double knitting?
Start with the needle size recommended on your yarn label, then adjust based on your gauge swatch. Many knitters find they need to go up one needle size because managing two strands tends to tighten their tension. A swatch of at least four inches square in double knitting will reveal whether you need to adjust.
Is double knitting the same as knitting with double-pointed needles?
No. Double knitting refers to a specific two-color, two-layer technique that produces reversible fabric. Double-pointed needles are simply a type of needle used for small-circumference circular knitting like socks and hat crowns. The two concepts are completely unrelated despite the similar name.
Start Your Double Knitting Journey
Double knitting opens up a world of reversible, polished colorwork that looks professional from every angle. The technique is simpler than it appears — once you master the rhythm of knit one, purl one with alternating colors, the process becomes meditative and fast. Start with a small potholder or swatch to build confidence, then move on to scarves and cowls.
Use the Gauge Calculator to dial in your double knitting gauge before casting on your first project. Accurate gauge means accurate sizing, and accurate sizing means a finished piece you are proud to use or give away.