How to Read a Knitting Pattern When You're Brand New
Reading a knitting pattern is mostly about learning a compact shorthand. Patterns use abbreviations, asterisks, and brackets to avoid printing the same instruction forty times. Once you know that k means knit, p means purl, and brackets mean "repeat this chunk," about 80% of any beginner pattern unlocks itself.
What do all those abbreviations actually mean?
Every abbreviation in a pattern stands for a specific stitch or action. You do not need to memorize them before you start -- just keep a reference list open beside you until they stick.
The most common ones you'll hit in a first project are:
- k -- knit
- p -- purl
- co -- cast on
- bo or bind off -- bind off (sometimes written as "cast off")
- st / sts -- stitch / stitches
- rep -- repeat
- RS / WS -- right side / wrong side
- yo -- yarn over
- k2tog -- knit two stitches together (a decrease)
- sl -- slip a stitch without knitting it
The Craft Yarn Council maintains a standardized abbreviation list that most US patterns follow. When a pattern uses something unusual, it will define it in a "special stitches" or "abbreviations" section near the top. Always read that section first, even before you look at the actual instructions.
What do the asterisks and brackets mean?
Asterisks and brackets are repeat markers that tell you to work the same group of stitches multiple times. Instead of writing out every repetition, the pattern marks the chunk once and tells you how many times to do it. Brackets usually give you a count at the end, like [k3, p1] 4 times.
Asterisks and brackets are repeat markers. They tell you to work a set of stitches more than once without the pattern having to write it out every single time.
Here is what that looks like in practice:
*k3, p1; rep from * to end
That means: knit 3, purl 1, then knit 3, purl 1, then knit 3, purl 1 -- all the way to the end of the row. The asterisk marks where the repeat starts. You just keep cycling through that chunk until you run out of stitches.
Brackets work the same way but usually tell you how many times to repeat a smaller section within a larger row:
k2, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2
Work k2, then work (k1, p1) exactly 4 times, then work k2. The number after the bracket tells you the count.
If you ever lose your place, use a row counter or a pencil mark on a printed copy. Trying to hold it all in your head is where new knitters get into trouble.
What does the pattern mean by "gauge" and can I skip it?
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows that fit into a 4-inch square using a specific yarn and needle size. Skipping it is the single fastest way to end up with a hat that fits a cantaloupe or a sweater meant for someone twice your size.
A pattern might say: 20 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette on US 7 needles. That is the designer's gauge. If your gauge swatch gives you 22 stitches over 4 inches, your stitches are smaller than the designer's, and your finished piece will come out narrower than intended. Go up a needle size and swatch again.
The Craft Yarn Council recommends knitting a swatch at least 6 inches square, then measuring the center 4 inches to avoid edge distortion. Wash and block the swatch the same way you'll wash the finished item -- yarn can shift a full stitch per inch after washing. Measure as you go on the actual project too, not just at the beginning.
What does "multiple of X stitches" mean in the cast-on instructions?
It means the stitch pattern only works if your stitch count is divisible by that number. This is the pattern telling you the math it needs to come out even.
For example: "Cast on a multiple of 4 sts" means 12, 16, 20, 24 -- any number divisible by 4 will work. If the pattern says "multiple of 4 sts, plus 2," then you add 2 to any of those: 14, 18, 22, 26.
This matters most when you are adjusting a pattern to a different size or substituting a stitch pattern. If your stitch count is off by even one, the repeat will not line up at the end of the row and you will be staring at the needles wondering what went wrong.
How do I figure out which size to make?
Look at the finished measurements, not the size label. Pattern sizes labeled S, M, L, or 1, 2, 3 vary wildly between designers and even between patterns from the same designer.
Find the finished chest, length, or circumference measurement in the schematic (the little diagram, usually at the end of the pattern). Compare that number to something you already own and wear. Most patterns are written with a few inches of ease -- extra room built in. A fitted sweater might have 1 to 2 inches of ease; an oversized pullover might have 6 or more. The pattern notes will usually tell you what ease was intended.
If there is no schematic, measure a similar finished object you own, then pick the pattern size whose finished measurements come closest to that.
What should I actually do before I cast on?
Read the whole pattern through once before you pick up your needles. It takes five minutes and saves you from hitting a surprise technique mid-row with no idea what is coming. Flag anything unfamiliar, look it up ahead of time, and you will knit with a lot more confidence from the first stitch.
Read the entire pattern once through before you touch your yarn. This sounds obvious and almost nobody does it on their first project.
One full read-through lets you catch things like "at the same time" instructions (where two things happen simultaneously), unusual construction methods, or a technique you have never done that you might want to look up before you are in the middle of a row. Note any abbreviations you do not recognize and look them up immediately.
Print the pattern if you can, or use an app that lets you highlight and annotate. Keep a pencil, a row counter, and a few stitch markers within reach. The physical setup matters more than most tutorials admit -- a cluttered workspace is where mistakes live.
Pattern reading gets faster every time. The first pattern feels like a foreign language. By the fifth one, you are scanning for the parts that are actually new.
Frequently asked questions
What do all the abbreviations in a knitting pattern mean?
Knitting abbreviations are shorthand codes that represent specific stitches or actions, like "k" for knit and "p" for purl. Most patterns include a legend or key at the beginning that defines every abbreviation used. If yours doesn't, a quick search for "standard knitting abbreviations" will cover the most common ones. Fibertools.app also offers resources to help you decode unfamiliar terms as you work through your first pattern.
How do I know what size needles and yarn to use for a knitting pattern?
Every knitting pattern lists recommended needle size and yarn weight in the materials section, usually near the top. These recommendations are based on achieving the correct gauge, which determines the finished size of your project. Using a different yarn weight or needle size than suggested can change how your finished piece looks and fits. Always check this section before purchasing supplies so your project turns out as intended.
What is gauge and do I really need to swatch before starting a knitting pattern?
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows that fit into a specific measurement, usually four inches, and yes, swatching is genuinely worth it. Knitting a small test swatch lets you check whether your tension matches the pattern's gauge. If your swatch is off, you can adjust your needle size before committing to the full project. Skipping this step is one of the most common reasons finished knitting projects end up the wrong size.
What does it mean when a knitting pattern says to repeat a section?
A repeat instruction tells you to work the same sequence of stitches multiple times across a row or round. Repeats are usually shown inside asterisks, brackets, or parentheses, such as "repeat from * to end." Count your stitches carefully before starting so you have the right multiple for the repeat to work out evenly. Placing stitch markers at the beginning of each repeat section can help you stay on track and catch mistakes early.
How do I follow a knitting pattern that has instructions for multiple sizes?
Multi-size patterns list different numbers separated by parentheses, such as "cast on 80 (90, 100, 110) sts," where each number corresponds to a different size. Before you begin, identify your size and circle or highlight every number that applies to you throughout the entire pattern. Working from the wrong set of numbers is a very easy mistake to make mid-project. Taking five minutes to mark your size on a printed or digital copy of the pattern will save a lot of frustration later.