What Are Short Rows and When Do You Use Them?
A short row is any row where you turn the work before reaching the end. By working extra rows in one section, that section grows taller than the surrounding fabric. The extra height creates a curve, slope, or wedge.
Common uses:
- Sock heels: Short rows across the center back create a cup that wraps around the heel bone. - Shoulder shaping: Instead of binding off in stair-steps, short rows create a smooth diagonal slope. - Bust darts: Extra rows in the chest area add length for a better fit without widening the garment. - Curved hems: A slightly longer back than front (or vice versa) on a sweater. - Wedge-shaped shawls: Short rows create a crescent or wedge shape from a flat piece. - Hat crowns: Short rows can shape the crown instead of decreases.
How Do You Work Short Rows in Knitting?
Method 1: Wrap and Turn (W&T) The most traditional method. When you reach the turning point, you wrap the yarn around the next stitch to prevent a hole, then turn.
To wrap and turn on a knit row: 1. Knit to the turning point. 2. Slip the next stitch purlwise to the right needle. 3. Bring the yarn to the front (between the needles). 4. Slip the stitch back to the left needle. 5. Turn the work. The yarn is now in position to purl back.
To wrap and turn on a purl row: 1. Purl to the turning point. 2. Slip the next stitch purlwise. 3. Bring the yarn to the back. 4. Slip the stitch back. 5. Turn the work.
Picking up wraps: When you eventually work across the wrapped stitches, pick up the wrap and knit or purl it together with the wrapped stitch. This hides the wrap and closes any gap.
Method 2: German Short Rows (Easiest) No wrapping needed. When you turn, pull the working yarn over the needle firmly so the first stitch of the previous row creates a "double stitch" (both legs of the stitch sit on the needle).
How to do it: 1. Knit or purl to the turning point. Turn the work. 2. Pull the working yarn firmly over the needle from front to back. 3. The first stitch on the left needle pulls up and both legs sit on the needle (a double stitch). 4. Continue working the row. 5. When you reach a double stitch on a later row, work both legs together as one stitch.
German short rows are the most beginner-friendly method. No wrapping, no picking up. The double stitch is easy to see and easy to work.
Method 3: Japanese Short Rows Place a removable stitch marker on the yarn between the last worked stitch and the turning stitch. On later rows, use the marker to identify where to pick up and close the gap. Creates the most invisible short row but requires careful marker management.
How Do You Work Short Rows in Crochet?
Crochet short rows are simpler than knitting short rows because crochet stitches are independent. You don't need wraps or double stitches to prevent holes.
Method: 1. Work to the turning point. Stop. 2. Chain the turning chain height for your stitch (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc). 3. Turn the work and crochet back to the other end (or to another turning point).
To hide the turning gap: When you work the full-length row that passes over the short-row section, work the stitch at the turning point through both loops plus the top of the turning chain. This closes the small gap that forms at the turn.
For crochet, short rows are most commonly used in garment shaping (bust darts, shoulder slopes) and in sculptural amigurumi (creating 3D curves without using increases and decreases).
How Does the FiberTools Gauge Calculator Help?
Short rows add length in specific sections without adding width. The amount of extra length depends on how many short rows you work and your row gauge.
The Gauge Calculator tells you how many rows per inch your fabric produces. From there, you can calculate exactly how many short rows you need for a specific amount of extra shaping.
Example: You want 1.5 inches of shoulder slope. Your row gauge is 6 rows per inch. You need 9 short rows (1.5 x 6) to create a 1.5-inch slope.
The Gauge Calculator also helps when modifying a pattern for a different gauge. If the pattern calls for 8 short rows at 7 rows per inch (1.14 inches of shaping), and your gauge is 6 rows per inch, you need 7 short rows (1.14 x 6 = 6.86, rounded to 7) for the same amount of shaping.
Use the Stitch Counter to track which short row you're on. Short row sequences can involve 6-12 turns, and losing track means the shaping is uneven.
What Are Common Tips and Mistakes?
Practice on a swatch first. Work 20 stitches, then practice turning at stitch 15, then 10, then 5, creating a wedge. This teaches you the turn, the wrap (or double stitch), and the pick-up without risking a real project.
Close every gap. The purpose of wraps, double stitches, or Japanese markers is to close the hole that forms at the turning point. If you skip this step, your fabric has visible holes at every turn.
Work short rows in pairs. Most shaping requires short rows on both the right and wrong sides. A shoulder slope needs turns on both knit and purl rows to create a smooth diagonal on both edges.
Count your turning points. Mark each turning point with a stitch marker so you know where the wrap or double stitch is when you work the pickup row.
Short rows add yarn. Extra rows in one section means extra yarn. Budget 5-10% more yarn for projects with extensive short row shaping (sock heels, bust darts, shaped shoulders).
Common mistakes: - Forgetting to pick up wraps (visible holes at every turn) - Turning at the wrong stitch (the shaping lands in the wrong place) - Not counting short row pairs (asymmetric shaping) - Pulling too tight at the turn (a pucker forms instead of a smooth curve) - Working short rows in the wrong direction (the curve goes the wrong way)
What Do Real Short Row Projects Look Like?
The German short row sock heel. A knitter worked a top-down sock and shaped the heel with German short rows. She knit across the 32 heel stitches, turning 1 stitch earlier on each side until 10 stitches remained in the center. Then she worked back outward, turning 1 stitch later each time until all 32 stitches were active again. The double stitches were easy to spot and work. Total short rows: 22 turns. The heel fit perfectly with no holes.
The bust-dart sweater. A knitter added bust darts to a raglan pullover using wrap-and-turn short rows. She worked 8 short rows (4 pairs) across the front chest, each turning 3 stitches further from center. The extra 8 rows added 1.3 inches of length in the bust area without widening the sweater. The wraps were invisible after picking up.
The crochet wedge shawl. A crocheter made a crescent-shaped shawl using short rows. She worked hdc rows that turned progressively further from the center, creating a wedge that curved into a crescent. Each section of 6 short rows added a new wedge. After 12 wedges, the shawl measured 60 inches across the top edge with a gentle crescent curve.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the easiest short row method for beginners?
German short rows are the easiest. When you turn, pull the yarn over the needle firmly to create a double stitch. When you reach the double stitch later, work both legs together. No wrapping, no picking up, no markers. The double stitch is visible and hard to miss, so you're unlikely to create holes.
Do short rows use more yarn?
Yes, but only slightly. Short rows add extra rows to one section, which consumes extra yarn. For sock heels, the short rows add about 5% more yarn than a heel-flap construction. For bust darts (8-12 short rows), the extra yarn is negligible. Budget 5-10% extra for heavily shaped projects.
Can I convert a pattern's short row method to a different method?
Yes. Wrap-and-turn, German, and Japanese short rows are interchangeable. The turning points stay the same. Only the technique at the turn changes. If a pattern calls for wrap-and-turn and you prefer German short rows, work the same turning sequence but use the double-stitch method instead of wrapping.
Why do I get holes at my short row turns?
Holes form when you don't close the gap between the last worked stitch and the turning stitch. In wrap-and-turn, you must pick up the wrap and knit it together with the wrapped stitch. In German short rows, you must work both legs of the double stitch together. If you skip either step, a hole appears. Tension at the turn also matters: don't pull too tight.
Start Using Short Rows
Short rows turn flat fabric into 3D shapes. Sock heels, shoulder slopes, and bust darts all use the same technique: turn early, work back, and close the gap. Practice on a swatch, then tackle your first short row heel.
Use the Gauge Calculator to figure out how many short rows produce your target shaping amount, and the Stitch Counter to track your turns.